The Goods #3
Oaxaca Edition: Stores, Spaces, and Crafts
Welcome to The Goods, a monthly list of things I’m excited about and interested in across art, fashion, trends, and more.
Oaxaca is a magical place. Traveling with two young kids, I was cautious of how much “arts and culture” we planned for, but it was the best feeling in the world watching their eyes grow with wonder as they saw candles being hand-poured with sweet beeswax or yarn dyed with bugs from cacti (cochineal) and the general hubbub of makers and markets everywhere.
Despite the increasing tourism, locals have fought hard to maintain Oaxaca’s commitment to their heritage. Back in 2003, the community led by artist Francisco Toledo, fought to keep McDonalds out of the main tourist corridors and notably won. While this fight predates the rise of social media, which only further flattened culture around the world, Oaxaca seemingly has been able to hold on to its character. The places featured in this month’s issue of The Goods exemplify what it means to live and create within this delicate balance of tradition, craftsmanship, and modernity.
Ceramics: Piedra de Rio
There are over 70 different pottery communities in Oaxaca, with 35 different ways of working with clays, glazes, and finishes. The most popular categories are Barro Negro (black clay), Barro Rojo (red clay), green-glazed ceramics, and figurative pieces. While most studios are in surrounding rural towns like Atzompa and San Marcos Tlapazola (neither of which I made it to, but are reasons to go back), there are many place to buy ceramics within the city. My favorite shop was Piedra de Rio, recommended by friend Amy, owner of a beautiful store Casa OK in Mexico City (go there too!). I fell in love with the pieces with picos (spikes), inspired by the native Pochoto tree which has spikes on the trunk. The tree is known as “tree of life” as it is believed to connect the underworld to the skies and heavens in ancient indigenous culture.
Other spots: Cooperativa 1050º (pottery collective with beautiful tableware, Son de Aqui (contemporary gallery /shop featuring rotating local artists), Taller Ruiz Lopez (run by famed Rufina Ruíz López, 5th generation ceramist in Atzompa)
Clothes and Accessories: Marchanta and Micha
Well-designed and curated stores will always have my heart, and both Marchanta and Micha delivered. Marchanta is a stunning store designed with clear nods to Oaxacan architecture and design with a full bar and patio next door. It is stocked with products that range from home goods, accessories, to high-end designer clothes all from Latin American designers including Zii Ropa, Grieve, and Ballen (one of the most popular pieces featured on our gift guide).
Another store that I stumbled into after breakfast at Onnno Loncheria (a gem!) is Micha, a concept store that featured work by local artisans. I picked up a beautiful crochet purse and beaded necklace (below).
Other spots: Mercado Benito Juarez (a can’t-miss traditional food and craft market in the heart of the city)
Candles: Casa Viviana
Casa Viviana, in Teotitlán del Valle, is known for their intricate, ceremonial candles made from beeswax. Led by the family matriarch, Doña Viviana Alávez, she carries a Zapotec wedding ritual where decorative candles were carried by friends and family of the bride and groom. Today they are a symbol of prosperity and abundance for a new couple. We sat mesmerized as she meticulously used molds, passed down for generations, to create the most perfect red roses and gracefully poured layers and layers of warm beeswax to make lusciously thick tapered candles.
Rugs: Teotitlán del Valle
Teotitlán del Valle is a small town known for its rugs made from wool and use of natural dyes. Earlier this year, when I interviewed Yasmin Mora of Umaguma, Mora shared how special this place was, and I had earmarked at it as a must-visit. The whole process left me (and the kids!) in awe. The dyes made from moss, marigolds, and cochineal (parasite found on nopal cacti that creates a red/burgundy color) were a reminder of the deep knowledge of the community’s local environment and resources — things we so often take for granted or disregard completely.
Other spots: We opted for more traditional tapetes, but there are a few contemporary artists that I have on my radar for next time - Rrres (in Oaxaca City), Taller Ocho (by appointment in Teotitlán del Valle)
Hotel: Casa Lyobaa
Casa Lyobaa in Mitla was a picture-perfect hotel and base for our family to explore countryside. Every detail, from the local art and crafts that filled each room to the beautiful palapa where we enjoyed breakfast (and races) to the shared kitchen space filled with books, records, and ceramics, made us not want to leave (and I wanted to take everything home).
The town of Mitla is quaint, with a Zapotec archeological site a short walk from the hotel and a handful of restaurants in the main square. We did find our favorite Mezcaleria here as well, Mezcaleria "El Espadín" (which I have no way of linking, but if you go let me know!).
Other spots we stayed at and loved: Pug Seal Oaxaca (stunning hotel with murals from Rafael Uriegas which were even more stunning in person) and Nana Vida Oaxaca (a sanctuary in Centro in Oaxaca City filled with local art)
Extra, Extra: Food Favorites
I’d be remiss to not mention the food of Oaxaca. We ate some really great meals, snacks, and everything in between. Favorites were Criollo, Boulnec, Tierra del Sol, Rito Chocolteria, and Onnno Loncheria (my husband is admittedly the food guy, so I’m just there for the ride and he rarely misses).
