Trendless Fashion
The antithesis to the hype cycle
As New York Fashion Week wrapped this week with the prime closing night spot given to none other than rising start, Luar (featured in the Fall NYFW immigrant recap), there has been a lot of buzz about the return of “real clothes” on the runway. Both Vanessa Friedman of the Times and Rachel Tashjin in Harper’s Bazaar highlighted Proenza Schouler, Eckhaus Latta, and Fforme shows as trendless and a return to the art of clothes that celebrated construction, materials, and strong silhouettes. Tashjin describes the shift best as “how much more pleasurable it is to look at something that rewards lingering—a plant stand turned upside down so that it looks like a tutu, or a nice suit that demands a more sophisticated gaze—instead of hyper-binging images, ideas, fashion”.
This feels like a stark contrast to the world of TikTok and trend whiplash. There are more “-cores” than people can keep track of. It begs the question if these are even really “trends” as in the case of something like Barbiecore, or was it just a couple of movie stills that were shared. There are also oft buzzy drops, built only for virality and will soon be forgotten by the next trending topic (see: MSCHF Big Red Boots). Adina Glickstein put this well in her piece in Spike Magazine, “The trend cycle has no doubt been accelerating thanks to the proliferation of image-sharing platforms and hastening of manufacturing…It endlessly forges its disposable revivals, and in so doing, it forecloses the future”.
The master act of trends for trends sake, was this week’s announcement of Pharrell Williams as the new Creative Director of Louis Vuitton taking the spot of the late Virgil Abloh. While you can rationalize the decision (LV makes all of its money off of its accessories and shoes, a creative director just provides the vision, not the ability to make clothes, fashion is entertainment and they hired an entertainer), it does feel like its another vote in support of the influencer/”Jack of all trades, master of none” mentality that feels easier and easier to slip into and as Robin Givhan penned in her op-ed it leads to the “loss of fashion magic”. (Not to mention, Pharrell’s latest partnership with Tiffany Co., diamond encrusted sunglasses without a nod to the Mughal inspiration, adding further insult to injury for this writer).
Every trend has a countertrend and with the barrage of trends we see today, it is not surprising to see trendless styles having a moment too. What I think people really crave though is a return to the simplicity of the craft. Creators that push you to otherworldly experiences and perspective through their designs and art. At least that’s what I’m betting on.
Side note - for anyone around LA this week, lots of good things happening around the city for LA Art Week(end). Shoutouts to some Lota featured creators who will be on view including Basil Kincaid at Frieze LA, KourPour at Felix Art Fair, Thalia Gochez at Photo Forward LA, and Gaetano Pesce at The Future Perfect.