Melody Willis Weaves Nigerian-American Stories into Denim
Willis' brand Chop YAM is at the crossroads of culture, craft, and fashion
“I grew up experimenting with denim and was introduced to indigo dyeing during my formative years spent in Nigeria,” shared Nigerian-American founder of Chop YAM, Melody Willis. Based in Chicago, Willis connected these two techniques - American denim and African craftsmanship - when first designing for her brand in 2016. “The main goal has always been to tell our own stories,” explained Willis,"because if not us, then who?”
The name Chop YAM is a warm invitation to take a seat at the table and partake in Nigerian-American culture. “Chop” in Nigerian broken English means “eat”, and yams, a food revered in her mother’s Igbo tribe, symbolize versatility and perseverance - traits Willis has fully embodies in her journey building the brand.
Launched in 2020, Chop YAM debuted with a denim puffer coat, a classic Willis reimagined and perfected over the years. The brand expanded to include denim tote bags made with natural indigo dyed in 700-year-old dye pits in Nigeria. The upcoming collection features denim bucket hats and bronze fish hook pins, crafted in Senegal and inspired by the bronze sculptures found in Benin City, Nigeria1.
Chop YAM’s 2022 Yanga Collection pays homage to Afro-Mexican culture, demonstrating Willis’ thoughtful research and design process. Drawing from the historical ties between Africans and Mexican through the Trans-Atlantic slave trade, Willis used a jacquard denim and incorporated elements from African Commemorative Cloths. Traditionally, these cloths celebrate individuals at festivities or funerals, featuring their face on a printed wax cloth. For her piece, Willis pulled inspiration from the Mexican Raramuri tribe, known for their athleticism, and Virgin de Guadalupe, an important religious symbol in Mexico. She transformed the fabric into her signature puffers, beautifully showcased in a lookbook shot in Collantes, an Afro-Mexican town in Oaxaca, Mexico. Heritage, storytelling, and craft all come alive through Willis’ every move.
Willis is candid about the hardships of bootstrapping her brand, working full-time. She is acutely aware of the harsh realities of the fashion industry, as exemplified by a recent New York Times story about Elena Velez, an acclaimed young designer who is still at the whim of every last sale. Willis opts to build slowly, refusing to compromise on her vision. She has been advised to leverage celebrities or influencers, or to release more frequent drops. Yet, Willis chooses to spend her resources prototyping new ideas and finding artisans who can authentically represent her narrative and brand.
“There's so much pressure on us as fashion entrepreneurs and it can really take a toll on our mental health if we’re not careful,” Willis admitted. “On one end I'm like, oh my gosh, how can you say you're a business if you're not consistently dropping and selling stuff? In my head, I think they’re going to forget about you because it’s not like you're a big brand.” And on the other, Chop YAM is a brand filled with intention and care with Willis’ conviction woven through every piece.
So, shall we grab a plate and Chop YAM together?
Thank you Melody for the incredible work you are putting out! If you are interested in learning more check out Chop YAM’s website and follow them on Instagram @chop.yam
All images courtesy Chop YAM
Benin City is the capital of Edo State in Nigeria. From the 13th to 19th century it was a powerful kingdom, until it was captured and burned by the British. The British stole the Benin Bronzes which have been recently returned to Nigeria with its ultimate ownership still under question.